Friday, February 14, 2014

Luciano Sandrone 'Valmaggiore' Nebbiolo d'Alba 2007 (Piedmont)

While I am still not convinced that Nebbiolo is for me, wines like this make a persuasive case for their place on the dinner table.

The 'Valmaggiore' in the name of this bottling is a reference to a single vineyard. There is not a long history of single vineyard expression in Piedmont, but many producers have headed down this path in recent years for at least some of their nebbiolo-based wines.

This 2007 has a beautiful, assured feel about it. Lithe and long, tannins ripple around the cherried fruit. Mouth-perfume. A lick of a cherry-pip, nutty character here that is really appealing. The absence of new oak shows with a clear expression of nebbiolo tannin that does not dominate the fruit. A well-balanced example of the quality to be had outside Barolo and Barbaresco bottlings.

Very easy to drink at the moment, though a few more years in bottle would not hurt either. Worth a purchase.

Cork, purchase, $90, 13.5% alcohol, imported by Bibendum, website here.


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