The Hamilton's Bluff vineyard at Canowindra can turn out the goods with sangiovese. Not too close to the richer, wetter and hotter parts of the district (near Cowra in NSW), there is vigour enough for the vines without washing out colour and flavour. But what I have enjoyed about the couple of vintages of this I have had, including this 2005, is that there is a distinctiveness to the wine. It has a softly-aged richness of texture, something gently-creamy about it, that is genuinely appealing. As well as being an excellent example of graceful aging under screwcap, at around $25 a bottle this is both good value and a good return to the people who grew the fruit, made the wine and brought it out to market in its prime. Roast lamb with borlotti beans cooked off in the tray at the end of the roast makes a good match, or just good bread & a bottle of spicy olive oil.
Their website is worth a look, both for the wine and Julia Andrews' writing about their vineyard, business and local area. Personal and personable.
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Thanks for a lovely review Paul! Will be sure to try the roast lamb and borlotti beans with our Sangio. Grapes are just hanging on this wet and humid vintage - the flavour of the Sangiovese is fantastic but still a week or two from harvest. Pray for no more rain! Cheers - Julia
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